- How to Turn Your Dog into the Perfect Running Partner
- An energetic dog will chew up your sofa, eat your shoes, and wreak general mayhem on your household, but with a little bit of training, he could also be your perfect running buddy.
- Start with Leash Training
- Talk to Your Vet
- Your First Run
- Take it Slow
- Develop a Training Plan
- How to Train Your Dog to Run With You
- Basic Training Tips
- How Far To Run
- Leash Training Tips
- 5K or 10K Training Plan
- How To Train A Dog To Have Sex With You
- The Woman Who Trains Dogs to Have Sex with Humans
- Tricks for maximum pleasure while mating with your dog
- How to Introduce Your Dog to Running
- First things first: Talk to your vet
- Get your supplies in order
- Think of a cue
- Start slow
- Pay attention
- Running in hot weather
- Running in cold weather
- Can every dog be a runner?
How to Turn Your Dog into the Perfect Running Partner
An energetic dog will chew up your sofa, eat your shoes, and wreak general mayhem on your household, but with a little bit of training, he could also be your perfect running buddy.
Running is both a stress-reliever and a form of exercise, and when you let your dog join in, you’ll both reap the benefits of this cathartic activity. Running is a great way to tire out an energetic dog or give your pudgy pup a much-needed bout of exercise.
But even if your dog is a born runner, running on a leash doesn’t always come naturally. Here are a few tips that will get Fido from the front door to five miles.
Start with Leash Training
You can’t learn to walk without first learning to stand, and your dog can’t learn to run with you if he doesn’t first know how to walk with you. If your dog pulls on the leash in his excitement to keep moving, your run could turn into a full-on sprint into traffic. To stay safe, it’s important to start with general leash training.
You want your dog to walk either calmly by your side or a few paces in front of you, so to start, put him on a short leash. Start walking, and if he stays with you, reward him with a treat every few minutes. If he tries to pull away from you or puts any kind of strain on the leash, stop walking.
The goal is to get him to understand that if he pulls, you don’t walk. But if he stays by you, he gets to walk and he gets treats. Win-win!
Talk to Your Vet
Once your dog is walking nicely by your side, you’re almost ready to go out on your first run. Before you grab your sneaks, however, it’s important to check with your vet to make sure your pup is up for the physical challenges associated with running. Your dog’s physical abilities will depend on his breed, age, and fitness level.
As a general rule, dogs younger than one year should not be taken on runs. Their bones and ligaments are still growing at a rapid pace, and excessive exercise leaves them vulnerable to injury. If your dog is older, knowing he’s in good health will give you peace of mind when you’re both huffing and puffing.
Your First Run
For your first run, alternate walking and running to get your dog accustomed to running by your side. It’s important to not have too high of expectations and to realize that learning to run with you is the same as learning his basic commands. It will take time and patience. If he pulls, remember your leash training and immediately stop.
Because many young dogs associate running with playtime, it’s also common for dogs to think you’re trying to play a game. If he turns around to play with you, simply say “No” in a firm voice and stop running. Remember that this run is about your dog, not about you. If you end up missing out on planned exercise, don’t take that frustration out on your dog.
Take it Slow
If you’re already an avid exerciser, you know the key to fitness training is to do it in increments. You can’t expect a new runner to reach the 10-mile mark on their first go, and the same goes for your dog. Your dog will need proper conditioning before he’s ready to join you on long runs.
Continue with alternating between walking and running and gradually start lengthening the runs and shortening the walks. Pay attention to his body language to be alert for signs that he needs a break. If he’s lagging behind or panting heavily, it may be time to stop. Remember to provide your dog with plenty of water and never push him past his limits.
Develop a Training Plan
Once your dog is running either by your side or in front of you without any issues, it’s time to kick the training up a notch. Make running with your pup a regular activity by either starting a new training program or including your dog in your already set up running regimen. If you’re new to running, make it a point to run every other day, and add minutes and miles each week to reach your goals.
Having an energetic dog is one of the best exercise routines you could ever ask for. Dogs offer motivation and support, and you’ll never have to worry about them skipping out on runs like you do with other running partners. With the right kind of practice, you’ll be able to enjoy running with your best friend by your side.
Do you take your dog on runs? If you have any tips to add, do so in the comments below.
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By Dr. Sophia Yin
You like to run, your dog likes to run. It seems like a no-brainer. How about both of you run together? While you might be concerned about your dog’s ability to run a reasonable distance, the most common hindrance to running together is actually your dog’s ability to stay at your side.
Intro to Training Your Dog
The first mission at hand is to teach Rover to walk nicely on leash. You’ll want him to run either on your left or right side with his front feet even with yours or behind. Choose a side and stick with it so he doesn’t get confused. For the purposes of this article I’m choosing the left.
Start with a hands free leash, such as The Buddy System, or with a regular 4-6 foot leash that you hold by keeping your bent arms at your side in a normal running stance rather than extending your arms out. Bring a portion of your dog’s regular meal or small treats which you can carry in easily accessible pockets or a treat pouch. The leash should be long enough to hang in a “U” when you’re standing next to your dog. With the dog sitting by your side, give him several treats in a row until he’s sitting stably and not likely to get up on his own. Then start walking forward at a power walking pace so it’s clear to him that you want him to walk with you.
If he’s walking next to you and looking at you, reward with treats periodically. If his feet get ahead of you, then stop immediately and well before he gets to the end of the leash. If you’re holding the leash in your hand, be sure to keep your arm glued to your side rather than extending your arm forward which just teaches him to pull. When he reaches the end, he’ll pull and pull because it’s worked before. But, if you wait him out, he’ll eventually figure out that he’s not going anywhere. When he turns to look at you, lure him into a sit in front of you. Give several treats in a row until he he’s focused just on sitting and looking at you, and then briskly move forward when you’re ready. Repeat this procedure every time he gets ahead until he understands that getting ahead causes you to stop, and sitting and looking at you causes the walk to resume.
Next, work on about-turns and “U-turns” to help train him to stay by your side and help decrease the amount of treats you’ll need. With an about-turn, you walk forward on a straight line, turn 180ª towards your right so that the dog is on the outside, and the head back on the same line. Use this randomly as well as when the dog starts to get even one foot ahead of yours. When you turn, you can make it more fun for Fido by jogging a few steps and then rewarding him with a treat when he catches up and looks at you while continuing to walk.
The U turn is like the about-turn but in the opposite direction. You turn to your left in order to head back the direction you started. That means your dog will be on the inside of the turn which means you’ll have to be slightly ahead of him and then cut him off as you make your “U turn.” This teaches him that he should stay by your side so that you don’t keep cutting him off. If you have problems getting around your dog, you can place your hand with a treat right in front of his nose so that he stops to eat the treat, then you’ll complete your U turn while you have him stationary and then head in the new direction.
Alternate between these 3 methods for keeping him at your side and rewarding him for sticking near you. Make sure you do this for his entire walk until it becomes a habit. Then apply the same techniques to your run. If you have any problems at all, using a head halter such as a Gentle Leader or, for short-faced dogs, a Snoot Loop can really help. You’ll do things the same way so they don’t just learn to pull on the head halter.
Now apply these techniques to your run. You first runs should actually just be your dog’s regular walk with periods of jogging thrown in. If you try this on an actual planned run, you’ll probably be more interested in getting your run in and consequently won’t stick to the proper training. On this run, you’ll start by jogging ½ a block at a time. Be prepared to stop or do about turns. When he gets better at staying right next to you you can run for longer periods of time.
Rules of the Road
When running make sure that your dog is near you so that you and his leash are not hogging the entire road. If you’re running with a group, make sure he doesn’t run up the back of other runners because dogs can easily clip their heels and make them fall. In fact, it’s often best to run between the dog and other people since dogs sometime veer off.
Keeping Your Dog Hydrated
As with humans, if you’re only running a few miles, have a dog with no breathing issues, and the weather is cool you probably don’t need to carry water. But if you’re doing a run where you would need water, you definitely want the same amount of water breaks for your dog.
Signs to Stop
It’s also important to realize that dogs are less tolerant of heat than humans. Their main mode of cooling off is by panting. As a result, panting is one of the best ways to determine whether you should stop. If your dog looks alert and is panting quietly with tongue completely inside his mouth, then he’s ok in terms of heat. If his tongue is hanging outside of his mouth, mouth open wide, and the commissures of his mouth are pulled back, then it’s time to slow down and even rest. If his breathing doesn’t go back to normal within several minutes, then it’s time to end the run.
If you’re running at a decent clip, you’ll have other signs he’s tired too. He’ll slow down and start hanging out behind you instead of trying to be slightly ahead or right next to you. He should not get to the point where he has to lie down or you’ve done too much. Avoid coaxing him to go faster than he wants.
Tags: dog, dogs, exercise, exercise with your dog, loose leash, running, train dog to run, training tips, walking
How to Train Your Dog to Run With You
Dogs make great running partners. They’re enthusiastic and motivated, and they act as a good reminder that your workout is waiting.
The problem is that not all dogs are ready to run. No matter how energetic they seem at the house, if your dog isn’t in running shape, you might end up walking him back home.
Try these four tips to get Fido ready to hit the ground running.
Basic Training Tips
Before you start running with your dog, make sure he is healthy and ready for the exercise. Dogs that are too old or too young might not be able to handle a running program. In fact, dogs that are younger than 18 months should stick to walking. Puppies’ bones are still developing up to 18 months old and running can impact the development of bones for optimal long-term physical integrity. Walking with a younger dog will help build a strong base for a future running program.
For dogs that are 18 months or older, start the same way you would. If your dog is new to running, don’t set out for a 5-mile run. Start slow and build your mileage together. Consistency over time is the best approach.
How Far To Run
Start with a 10-minute run and then add 10 minutes each week until you reach your desired time or distance. Gradual build up allows for the muscles and connective tissue to adapt and grow to the activity without injury.
With time, your dog will adapt to your pace. This can be frustrating in the beginning. Many dogs want to go much faster than you are capable of and you find yourself trying to hang on to the leash. Others dogs may lag behind and appear distracted, which leads many dog owners to think their dog doesn’t like to run.
In both cases, the dog simply doesn’t know what he’s supposed to do. You have to teach him how to be a runner. With a little patience and time, the two of you will be running side-by-side at a good pace.
Leash Training Tips
Dogs that already walk nicely on a leash will transition to running with ease. A dog that pulls can be challenging.
The first thing to do is shorten the leash. If you have a 6-foot leash, and you let your dog get in the habit of walking ahead of you, he’ll continue to pull. Instead, keep the leash short enough that your dog is by your side, 2 to 3 feet at the most.
5K or 10K Training Plan
There are many 5K and 10K running plans to help you build distance and pace. You can try one of those or start out with something even easier.
To start, figure out your average mile time. Use a local track or mark the distance in your car and then time your mile run at a comfortable pace.
Once you have a comfortable pace, take that time and multiply it by the miles to get your run time for a 5K (3.1 miles) or 10K, (6.2 miles). Example: 11-minute mile x 3.1 miles = 34.1 minutes
Begin running with your dog 10 minutes every other day for a week. Then, the next week add another 10 minutes to your running time. Continue training every other day. The third week add another 10 minutes. The fourth week add another. Continue this process until you reach your projected time. Once you reach your projected time, keep running with your dog.
It will take time and patience to get your pup ready, but with a little guidance and practice you’ll end up with one of the best running partners you could hope for.
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Find your next race.
Research has shown training with a running buddy can increase exercise enjoyment and performance. While lining up calendars can be hard, there exists a running buddy who doesn’t require coordinating calendars or negotiating meeting spots. He or she will be enthusiastic about joining you no matter the time or weather. The most dependable running buddy is … your dog!
If you’re a regular runner — and a dog lover — you’ve probably considered teaching Fido to run happily alongside you as you casually navigate the trails, just a runner and man’s best friend. But while you can teach an old dog new tricks, running a 10K isn’t a skill dogs naturally possess — like any human, they need to build up mileage slowly and in a smart way.
Whether you’re heading out for an easy recovery jog or a tempo run, your pup will be happy to accompany you. The key to running with a dog is to train him or her to trot by your side at your desired pace.
These longtime ultrarunners and dog owners share their top tips for getting your dog trail-ready.
KNOW YOUR BREED
While there are personality differences from one dog to the next that affect his or her inclination for exercise, most breeds can run. “Different breeds have huge variability in abilities,” says Candice Alicia, an ultrarunner with four dogs. “I am very aware of the distance, time and speed they can each go, water sources and weather. Different dogs have different abilities and age plays a big factor, too.
“I don’t take my French bulldog on hot or long runs, only very short, hiking-heavy runs,” says Alicia. “I can take my Chihuahua on almost any run or distance — he’s done up to 42 miles and is built more like a small greyhound — but he needs jackets in the cold or rain. Know thy dog!”
The age of your dog also matters. Many vets recommend waiting to run with your pup until he or she is fully developed, which can be as late as a year and a half for some breeds. That first 1–2 years is a great time to focus on walking and leash training, a vital skill to master if you hope to run together. Teaching your dog to heel by your side, stop at intersections and follow general commands are all things he or she should be able to do before graduating to running.
Use low-key runs as an exercise in self-control for your pooch. Treats and verbal encouragement can go a long way in keeping him or her focused on the task. “The key things I have been doing are hiking her off leash every day, while providing a ton of treats and praise for everything good she does, using commands like come, sit, leave it and heel,” says runner Ryan Sullivan. “Every morning she runs right with me for 10 minutes after my run, and I just positively reinforce the whole time. Basically, focus on a ton of positive reinforcement and developing the most important commands as early as possible.”
A hands-free waist leash is perhaps the best investment you can make to keep your dog by your side while running. A harness that allows for the dog’s full range of motion can also be important if your pooch tends to pull. Be sure to carry waste bags on all runs, and bring along a collapsible water bowl when the weather is warm. Longtime runner Stephen Pretak, echoes this adding, “always bring more poop bags than you think you’ll need.”
NOTE THE TERRAIN
A lot of dog owners try to find trails to run since that terrain will be easiest on your pet’s paws, but that’s not possible for everyone. Still, consider your area and try to find the cleanest roads possible. “My partner and I both take our dog out the door for probably 60% of our runs. We’ve also had to be very careful with his paws … pavement can be rough on them, especially when hot or littered with debris,” says runner Ryan Horner. “We haven’t had any major issues, but we take extended breaks if he ever shows signs of something wrong with his paws.”
MAKE TRAINING PROGRESSIVE
Pretend your dog is a child, and ask yourself what you would expect from an active 10-year-old on his first run. Remember, you’re the alpha dog. This means your dog should always follow your lead, jogging by your side when you’re out for an easy recovery run and picking up the pace when you’re putting in a harder workout.
Control the pace and start slow. “Building the mileage up slowly is important,” says Kylee Van Horn, a nutritionist and runner. “I make sure to give our girl a couple of days off between runs, but she can go up to 20 miles with me on trails!”
CARRY WATER OR PLAN STOPS
“I also plan longer runs on routes I know have water crossings so I don’t have to carry too much extra water,” says ultrarunner Shad Mika. If you don’t have a lot of streams on your route, carry a water source that you know your dog will drink out of — sometimes, a thirsty dog still won’t be willing to slurp out of your water bottle. Ensure that they have an easy way to get enough water throughout your run — and on hot days, stop often to let them drink.
BE CONSCIOUS OF HOW YOUR DOG FEELS
Make sure you’re watching your dog for signs of distress — the tricky part is your pup is so eager to please, he’ll try to keep up even when he’s getting overheated, tired or is hurt. On hot days, having water access and shade along the route is key. Pay attention to your dog’s running style to make sure he doesn’t develop a mid-run limp thanks to a rock or shard of glass in his paw. Signs a dog is struggling include excessive panting or labored breathing, limping and abrupt stopping. Your dog isn’t always able to communicate distress with you until it’s too late, so it’s your job to look for those early warning signs.
HAVE AN EMERGENCY PLAN
“For long trail runs, if you have a medium or large dog you can’t carry, I recommend investing in an emergency carrying harness that you can stash in your pack,” says runner Cassie Crawford. If your dog is new to running, consider running a short loop multiple times so you’re never too far from the finish.
PLAY TO YOUR DOG’S STRENGTHS
If your dog isn’t built for speed, leave him home when you have to get in your interval run, but use him to ensure the easy runs on your training plan actually stay easy. It’s like having a built-in coach slowing you down. “My dog is pretty big, slow and uncoordinated … So he’s great for keeping my easy runs easy,” says runner Kassandra Marin. “Also, he prompts me to stop more and fully appreciate where I am and how awesome life is.”
IT’S OK IF YOUR PUP ISN’T A RUNNER
“My dogs prefer the post-run naps,” says runner Don Reichelt. If you’ve tried every training trick in the book and your dog would still rather flop than fartlek, that’s totally fine. Even dogs that seem like perfect trail runners sometimes just don’t love the sport. Again, think of your pup the same way you would a child: You might take him on a few runs, but if your kid stopped on the trail and refused to run every single time, you’d probably accept he’s just not into running.
How To Train A Dog To Have Sex With You
But i have proven through this protocol that some of these. Shake away deterrent critter repellent- chemical free granules that you spread about your garden. Uses the same methods as racinet, but because some of her work with bettina. For example, when training acceptance of nail trimming, remember to start with basic foot handling — without clippers, and at a level your dog can tolerate. Are you looking for dog training and puppy training in london, hertfordshire or essex. Puppy bed for your house. Doesn’t sound to me like the dog can do much in the way of jumping, so i second the baby gate idea. Everywhere, and some of us would be in schutzhund trials.
Now if i could ony find the money to get the same trainers back for maggie. Lilly would also like to remind everyone about car safety now that the warm weather has arrived. I have 2 dogs, one is a larger lab mix that weighs about 60 pounds and the other is a small chihuahua mix that weighs about 10 pounds. The handler may repeat the command “heel” (“fub”) or put the dog in the sit or down position during the encounters. According to the american society for the prevention of cruelty to animals (aspca), this highly infectious disease is “a term loosely used to describe a complex of infections–both viral and bacterial–that causes inflammation of the dog’s voice box and wind pipe. Are you or can you become accustomed to having a dog that is a highly intelligent quick learner that would love to be by your side and preferably in your lap at all times. A police dog can use two different types of alerts – a passive alert or an active alert – depending on the job(s) they’ve been trained for and the situation at hand. The reason i wanted to update, is because i am one of those people who is not experiencing a lot of intense grief post-passing. Have mentioned before, start early because these dogs are smart and. A safe, solid foundation of training.
Please note: i am not a behavorist but have worked with several good ones and the above is based on what worked for me. In the meantime, get a folded card table or a baby gate with mesh and put the dog and cat in separate rooms where they can see and smell but not get at one another. Use food reinforcers to reward your dog, and develop a gruff voice for making corrections. There are two types of bark training. on the other hand, there’s a deeper question being asked as well – often something like “when can i leave my dog home alone without my house getting chewed up. If you live with a dog, you may sometimes nurse a little resentment for your cat-owning friends, whose entire bathroom-related duties are limited to scooping one or two litter boxes each day. A high percentage of environmental input is provided through the ears, and the evidence is clear that from approximately eighteen weeks of gestation on, music plays a crucial role in the process of wiring a young child’s brain. If your dog and cat are socialized, there’s no reason they can’t be friends.
For every five times i ask her to play ball, she says no thrice. At what age can i send my dog to training. Knowing the lab can help you channel restlessness. She rides well in the car and enjoys going for walks and being around kids. ” – it doesn’t matter. About tugger giving your husband the “whale eye” (which i presume is what you’re referring to–where a dog cuts its eyes to one side so that a lot of the white is showing), this is a sign of concern and discomfort. We threw in so much salt it was scary. ), and slap her on the rump while telling her what a bad girl she has been.
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The Woman Who Trains Dogs to Have Sex with Humans
Meet Anna, a Ukrainian prostitute who is originally from Odessa but currently lives and thrives in the sex-for-money business in Holland. After I met her in an online porn chatroom, she started telling me all sorts of things about her life—like how she had got to Holland, what makes Russian clients worse than others, and why adorable puppies live in her cottage in Rotterdam.
VICE: Anna, how did you get into prostitution?
Anna: I’ve been working as a prostitute for over 30 years now. For the first 15 years I worked in Ukraine and then I migrated to Holland. Soon after we got married, my husband caught me in bed with another man. Realizing I was prone to this sort of behavior, he decided to use my body to further his own career. So I began to get intimate with his bosses and later with his business partners.
Did you earn money this way?
It was my husband who got the money—I never laid eyes on it. His career development was rapid. I’m not with him any more, but to this day he’s still involved in the illegal gun and petroleum trades. He’s a very well-to-do person in Ukraine.
When did you guys break up?
As soon as I left for Holland. The owner of the brothel I work for now used to have a stake in my ex-husband’s business. They exchanged me for the guy’s part of my ex-husband’s company.
So your husband sold you into sex slavery?
Yes, I suppose so, though I have no idea how much my value would be in Pound Sterling. I do know they both benefited greatly from this exchange. That’s how my husband began signing arms contracts with the Arabs. And to think it all began as a joke. I had already had sex with my future owner and he had taken me to the East several times, as his escort. He let a throng of Arabs have sex with me—and they tend to like kinky sex, mostly anal. I also love it.
I didn’t mind being traded, either. My husband got absorbed in his business and could hardly find any time to spend with me. My parents were aware of the situation and they stood by him. Friends of mine didn’t care much, they supported that decision too, some even joined our brothel later on.
It seems the women you work with are all of a certain age.
Yes, our club employs women who are from 40 to 57 years old. The owner says that adolescents cause too much trouble – we lack in morality, we never refuse and we are much more experienced.
How did you manage to immigrate? I would imagine writing down on your VISA application that you were intending to practice prostitution could have created some problems.
I had a VISA back then but now I’m a Dutch national. The procedure wasn’t really a big deal, we have powerful clients with ties everywhere. Also, prostitution in Holland is not illegal.
What are your duties?
The average client of our club is a VIP, lots are from television. It’s fun to get to see what they are all worth. We have reckless four-hour, 16-people orgies. Sometimes I’m hired as a “bitch.” I have to stand on all fours and let dogs fuck me. I’m up for anything except for scat, which is just as well since my boss doesn’t let clients do that any more.
I don’t really know what to say.
I can give the job up any time I want, but I don’t intend to—I enjoy it. Sex with animals, BDSM, gang bangs, anything goes—I just like fucking.
About the dogs, where do you get them from? Do they live in the club? Are they especially trained to have sex with people?
There are special dog farms in many countries that train dogs to do just that. I know at least two of the kind in Russia. I personally work as a trainer in such farms in Germany, Belgium, and Sweden. They employ me to help the dogs get used to the human female. After about half a year of concentrated effort, the dogs fuck like devils and I love it. Of course these special dogs aren’t cheap at all. I also have two dogs living in my cottage and they have never fucked with other dogs, only with humans. Often the clients will bring dogs of their own, these are of course trained dogs, too.
They bring the dogs to the brothel?
No, only talks and presentations take place in our club. The rest happens at the clients’. They all are well-heeled and have huge houses. There are dog enclosures and special basements for BDSM. They look like the basements Gestapo used to torture people in.
Do you ever work with Russians in Holland?
I don’t choose the clients, my boss does. But yes, former compatriots do visit. They are the worst when it comes to private parties. They always demand I do everything, even drink from a glass they have pissed in, for example. Of course they pay loads of money, even more than we ask.
Have you ever wished to become a mother?
I have children with my ex-husband, but they are all adults now with lives of their own. They work with my ex-husband, too. We get on well. They know that I live in the house with the dogs and visit me from time to time. My ex-husband visits me when he happens to be in the area as well.
Do you have any advice to pass on to Ukrainian women who are thinking of taking up prostitution?
I’ll advise them to keep cautious, be aware of their rights. Otherwise they are likely to be sold to Arabs as slaves. I’ve seen this happen a lot. Thank God my husband and my boss haven’t let that happen to me.
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My Other Friend is Becoming a Prostitute
Tricks for maximum pleasure while mating with your dog
As someone who had extensive sex with a dog over years: If you are female: As someone said put socks on the dogs frontpaws or wear a leathergirth, doormat or something as he will claw into your flesh and draw a tiny bit of blood on your sides. Not deep but those streaks can be annoying the rest of the day. In general you have nothing else to do but get on all fours, and hold still for him whatever happens. Maybe start with you on the back so he will lick you first, which provides some nice lubrication. Then roll around, hold still and maybe guide his penis (which he will jump on and poke in searching motion against you) with one hand into you. Make sure the dog is generally well behaved and knows some manners and commands. Nothing should suddenly frighten him for the comfort of both of you. But just holding still will work great. When he is done leave him alone a bit so he can take care of his personal hygiene. If you are a man or want to do anal: first get a stiff dildo the size of the dog(‘s junk) and carefully see if you can take it straight in there. The dog will ram his straight and rigid as fuck (you’ll be surprised) penis into you no matter what. If you are not used to that or get a really weird angle of entry due to no experience you COULD have a low chance of perforating something. That is a trip to the hospital then. You should also try heavy,fast in and out duty with it in the dry run, as the dog will do it this way (which feels quite awesome tbh). Important: A dog has a ‘knot’ at the base of his penis (just google for a pic). For vaginal you needn’t worry. For anal, if you are not used to such a size VERY MUCH, then DO NOT take the knot in for the first time. As he will need to get out again somehow, can be surprisingly big and he’ll probably simply pull hard. Which can hurt a lot or tear you. If you let him in he’ll ‘tie’ with you. Hold still, enjoy, but you friend should control him such that he just stays (by telling him to stay or similar things he knows) as naturally he would jump of and turn (with his penis in you) and that can become uncomfortable. I personally became very good in registering when the dog wanted to jump off and turn, at which point I quickly popped the knot out (if you are good with anal/that size again no prob. If not get a toy first and try). He then just jumped off and was out in a fraction of a sec. All good. But as a woman or an experienced male with the size you don’t need to worry. With a tiny bit if anal experience you can keep the knot out no problem by feeling. It is illegal in a lot of places, in others not. Just do it inside, DON’T HURT HIM, and don’t worry. These laws are remnants of times when sexual moral was dictated by religion and from there seeped into today’s laws as ‘natural’ and ‘logical’. There is no objective reason why one shouldn’t have mutually consensual sex with a dog, it’s perfectly safe and fun. In the street smartness department, don’t let him take any pictures or similar. Just for ensuring a nice future.
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How to Introduce Your Dog to Running
There’s nothing quite like running with your furry best friend. Your dog provides steadfast protection and loyal companionship. However, unlike your human running partner who can easily keep up the pace, canine friends deserve special attention, especially when they’re young. Erica Marshall, experienced trainer and owner of Wicked Good Dog Training, gives sound advice on starting your puppy off on the right foot ? err paw.
At what age can I safely begin running with my puppy?
Always confer with your veterinarian, as breed/mix can play a part in determining the best age to start a running regimen. Generally, you shouldn’t start running with your puppy before six months of age; any earlier and you can risk affecting his growing joints and muscles. Some large and giant breeds may not be ready until later.
Which breeds are best for running? Are there any breeds that should not run?
There are typical breeds that are known to be good running partners such as the Labrador, Golden Retriever and Siberian Husky. Other good breeds include Vizsla, German Shepherd and Dalmatian. Basically any dog with abundant energy and stamina can make a good running partner.
Dogs that should remain in your furry cheering section are Brachycephalic, or short-nosed dogs: Pug, English Bulldog, Boston Terrier, Pekingese, Shih Tzu and the like. These breeds are all too anatomically compromised to be able to withstand long distance and even short-distance running. They overheat even faster than other dogs and can’t take in enough oxygen to accommodate strenuous exercise.
More: What Are the Best Dogs for Running?
How do I start running with my pup?
Very slowly! In fact the first thing you should work on is polite walking leash manners. Get your puppy comfortable walking next to you, and as he progresses in efficiency, increase your speed. Practice in low-distraction areas first like your kitchen or living room and then as he progresses, take the practice sessions outside until he can speed walk/slow jog politely up and down your driveway and then in front of your house then down the block, etc.
If you’re an avid runner and a dog parent, the idea of hitching your four-legged friend up to his leash and pounding the pavement together might sound like a lot of fun. And it can be! Plus, it’s a good way for you both to get some exercise and stay fit – which is important, considering that around 55 percent of pooches in the U.S. have a little bit of a pooch (if this 2019 survey of pet owners and vets is to be believed).
However, there are a few things to know before you and your furry friend hit the trails or sidewalk. To start, not every dog is a good candidate for running, especially long-distance running. And even if your pup is built to be a great runner, you’ll want to teach them a few things to help your outings go more smoothly.
First things first: Talk to your vet
While you probably know your dog pretty well and are tuned in to his or her individual cues, dogs can’t tell us exactly when they don’t feel well or are in pain. That’s why it’s a good idea to take Fido to the vet and get a clean bill of health before you start any kind of training regimen.
Another thing to note: If your dog is a puppy, most vets advise that you hold off on trying to teach them how to run until they’re at least 18 months. Their bones aren’t fully formed yet, making them prone to injury, says Russell Hartstein, a trainer and CEO and owner of Los Angeles-based Fun Paw Care, a doggie daycare and training facility.
But if your dog’s been to the vet and is in tip-top shape, and he’s at least 18 months old, then he could be the perfect running buddy for you. Read on to get started.
Get your supplies in order
First, you’ll probably want a hands-free leash, which will free you up to move your arms the way you would during any other run.
A word of caution from Hartstein: Never use a choke chain, pronged collar, or shock collar when running with your dog – the risk for injury is too high if you have to stop abruptly for any reason (or if your dog suddenly spies a squirrel he just has to chase).
His recommendation: use a flat Martingale collar or a rear-attaching harness such as this one. A rear-attaching harness is probably your best, according to GearJunkie.com, because they allow your dog to “run without obstruction.”
Other gear you might want:
- a collar or leash with reflector lights for nighttime runs, so that drivers and cyclists can see you coming
- a pouch you can wear on your waist that holds treats
- extra poop bags
Think of a cue
This is a signal or command to alert your dog to the change in pace so that you’re not just jerking him on the leash, Hartstein says. The cue can be anything – for example, the American Kennel Club (AKC) suggests “Run” or “let’s go”—as long as it’s new and not something your dog associates with another command. You might also want to use a verbal cue of some kind that lets them know when it’s time to slow down (for example, “stop,” or “whoa”).
Even if you’re an experienced runner, you probably remember learning to run by alternating walking and running intervals. While there’s no exact equivalent for dogs, “starting with a slow, graduated pace is the default for teaching any dog a new behavior,” Hartstein says. Try starting with loose leash walking – i.e. when your dog is walking nicely next to you on the leash, not pulling or bounding ahead – for between five and 10 minutes. Just like people, it’s important for your dog to warm up before a serious run; plus, this will also give your furry friend a chance to eliminate and sniff a few trees, flowers, or fences (aka catch up on Doggy Facebook).
Once you’ve decided what cues to use, it’s time to pick up the pace—slowly. To teach the cue, “intersperse short bursts of jogging or running with your normal walking pace,” says Jerry Klein, the AKC’s chief veterinary officer. “Simply give the cue immediately before you increase your speed, and then reward your dog when he hurries to catch up.” Likewise, do the same thing when it’s time to slow down – give Fido his cue and then reward him when he does it correctly.
It’ll take several weeks to build up your doggo’s endurance. Start with short bursts of running interspersed with lots of walking. Gradually, shorten the amount of time you spend walking while increasing the running.
Ready to move on to something a little more challenging? Try a 5K training plan just for dogs (yes, they really exist!). Runner’s World has a couple of good options here.
Any pup parent knows that your dog loves you and wants you to be happy. To that end, some dogs aren’t that vocal when they’re miserable on the inside, which means it’s up to you to keep an eye on your four-legged friend and make sure he or she is doing okay.
A dog who’s enjoying running with you will be engaged, enthusiastic, and ready to run, Hartstein notes. If, on the other hand, your pooch is whining, crying, limping, hesitating, or his tail or ears are tucked, he might not be enjoying himself. “It is important to remember that each dog is an individual and behavior is contextual,” Hartstein says. “As a pet parent, you know your dog best. Does your dog’s behavior fit the context in which you are in? Is she exhibiting ‘normal’ behavior patterns or is there something abnormal about her behavior prior to, during, or after you dog run?”
Once you notice your dog is lagging behind a bit or having a harder time keeping pace, that’s a sign that he or she is getting tired and could use a break.
Running in hot weather
Is it a really hot day? Keep your runs short and sweet. “Dogs don’t think about stopping to drink,” says Gary Richter, a California-based vet and consultant for Rover. “When left on his own, he might know to stop and rest but when he’s with you, he’s going to try and keep up – even it’s harmful to him.” Building in frequent, small water breaks for Fido can help you make sure he’s not dehydrated and will also give you an opportunity to make sure he’s enjoying himself.
One important note: While it’s important for your dog to stay hydrated (just like you!) don’t let him or her take huge gulps of water, if possible, because it can increase the risk that they’ll swallow too much air and develop bloat, cautions Dr. Klein. Instead, give let him or her have small amounts at a time and make sure there’s at least a 10- to 15-minute “cool-down period, like a racehorse,” he says. Waiting until you get home to feed your dog will also lessen the chances of bloat (in that same vein, don’t for a run with Fido right after he’s wolfed down his breakfast).
Additionally, remember that little paw pads are sensitive and that hot asphalt or concrete can burn your dog’s feet. You can mitigate this with booties or paw wax, but it’s a good idea to double-check that it’s safe for your furry friend to join you. You’ve probably heard of the seven-second rule: Place the back of your hand on the concrete for seven seconds. If it’s too hot for your hand, it’s too hot for your dog, so you should leave him at home or use boots – but even if you opt for the booties, keep your runs brief. “In the heat or humidity, I would not run long, hard, or fast,” Hartstein adds.
Red-flag signs to watch out for
The big one is heatstroke, Dr. Klein says. If your dog’s gums are red, he’s panting until he can’t catch his breath, he’s drooling, vomiting, or having bloody diarrhea, try and cool him down as best you can—wrap him in a wet towel or even dump some water over his body and take him to the nearest vet immediately.
Running in cold weather
The cold tends to be a bigger problem for short-haired dogs, who may need to be fitted with a jacket (this Weatherbeeta one has a 4.5-star rating on Amazon), but sidewalk salt and ice can burn your dog’s paw pads, too, which is why it’s a good idea to fit him with booties before heading out.
Can every dog be a runner?
Maybe! But some dogs are marathoners and others are sprinters. Working dog breeds—malamutes and German shepherds, for example—tend to love exercise. Other breeds that love running: Golden retrievers, labs, vizlas, German short-haired pointers, poodles, and weimaraners.
Small dogs may be better suited for shorter distances, as they have to take several steps to keep up with human strides, Dr. Richter points out. And brachycephalic dogs—aka short-snouted dogs like pugs, French bulldogs, and Boston terriers—don’t breathe well, meaning that running can quickly become dangerous for them (especially in the heat).
Still, “All dogs are individuals, and I have worked with many couch potato German shepherd dogs and many energetic English bulldogs,” Hartstein says. As with people, it comes down to knowing your pooch, starting slow, and paying attention. Soon enough, your furry friend will find his stride.